Skin Rejuvenation Procedures
Gary
D. Monheit, M.D.
Associate Professor
Department of Dermatology
University of Alabama at Birmingham
Birmingham, Alabama
The pursuit of youth and beauty has become a hallmark of the baby-boomer
generation, which has now advanced to mid life and beyond. The distinct
increase in an older population due to newer advances and career development
has brought a larger healthy population interested in cosmetic procedures.
This mid-age population has remained active in the workforce and now
demands “no down time” procedures for skin rejuvenation
that will maintain their appearance for work and pleasure. This has
encouraged the development of new lasers,
new fillers, Botox, cosmoceuticals and many
other innovations that have reduced the down time and increased the
safety of our cosmetic facial rejuvenation procedures. All of us interested
in providing facial cosmetic procedures and surgery need to become familiar
with all the procedures now available.
Aging of
the skin is the combined result of both intrinsic factors and extrinsic
external influences from the environment. Intrinsic aging is the role
genetics play in relationship to chronologic age. These include alteration
of skeletal mass and proportion, atrophy and redistribution of subcutaneous
fat, increased laxity of underlying fascia and musculature and skin
changes characterized by thinning and atrophy. Most intrinsic factors
cannot be prevented but rejuvenative changes can be made with cosmoceutical
agents and resurfacing procedures.
Extrinsic
factors are those preventable environmental influences leading to premature
aging of the skin including ultraviolet exposure, smoking, chemicals
and gravity. UV exposure is the primary environmental factor, preferentially
affecting those with a lighter skin color. The mechanism includes the
production of UV inducing oxygenated fine radiants that have been shown
to invite a cascade of molecular events leading to the production of
collagen degrading enzymes. This creates the characteristic features
of photoaging, including rough texture, atrophy, fine and coarse wrinkles,
sallow and leathery appearance with dyschromia.1
In the
evaluation of the patient with photoaging, equal emphasis must be placed
on prevention as well as treatment. Agents available range from cosmoceutical
topical agents to filling agents that include resurfacing devices such
as chemical peels, ablative resurfacing lasers and dermabrasion. An
initial consultation is performed to determine which of these tools
is best for the patient based on severity and diversity of the condition.
Methods
to evaluate photoaging include the Glogau classification of wrinkles.
It classifies patients into one of four groups based on degree of severity
(Fig I). Category I is “no wrinkles” with young patients
who have minimal photoaging and are best managed with cosmoceutical
agents and superficial resurfacing procedures such as light chemical
peels and Microdermabrasion. Category
II are patients in their 30’s with early to moderate signs of
photoaging and characterized by wrinkles in motion. Category III has
moderate to advanced photoaging with static wrinkles requiring more
significant ablative resurfacing techniques. Category IV are the older
patients with more severe photoaging changes and wrinkles significant
enough to justify deep resurfacing and other surgical techniques.2
Ablative
resurfacing injures the skin in a controlled fashion to a specific depth
encouraging the growth of new and improved skin. These methods include
chemical peeling, dermabrasion and laser resurfacing. Skin resurfacing
techniques are divided into superficial, medium depth and deep relating
to the level of injury. The deeper procedures are restricted only to
the face, as other body areas do not have the healing capacity to rejuvenate
new skin after such an injury. Care must also be taken with the neck,
which may scar with medium depth or deep injury.3
The following
classification system is useful in categorizing skin resurfacing methods
(Table 1). It is based on the objective data done by Stegman et al.
correlating strengths of TCA by biopsy of depth of tissue destruction
and then new collagen rejuvenation. Thus superficial, medium depth and
deep resurfacing correlates modalities of peeling, dermabrasion and
laser to common denominators; inflammation and injury.4
A useful
method of assessing skin related photoaging is the Monheit-Fulton Index
of Photoaging Skin (Table 2). This system categorizes the visual changes
in photoaging skin and quantitates the amount to guide the physician
with appropriate therapy. The system combines age related textural and
lesional changes into a numeric system that will predict how aggressive
a physician should be in using superficial, medium depth and deep resurfacing
procedures.5
Medical
Care of Photoaging Skin
The basis of all rejuvenative therapy involves using sunscreen protection
and cosmoceutical preparation that will help reverse photoaging changes.
These products include sunscreens, retinoids, hydroxy acids, antioxidants
and bleaching agents as needed.
Ultraviolet
damage is caused by both UVB (290-320 nm) and UVA (320-400 nm) ultraviolet
damage. Both the burning rays of UVB and the more deeply penetrant UVA
cause problems of photocarcinogenesis and photoaging of the dermis.
Most sunscreens provide adequate protection against the burning effects
of UVB but only deliver partial protection against UVA. Sunscreens are
divided into chemical and physician blockers. The chemical screens include
oxybenzene, para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) and octyl methoxycinnamate.
The physical blockers now are transparent micronized formulations of
titanium dioxide and afford more complete UVA and B protection.6
Topical
retinoids have a direct effect on epidermal cell proliferation and dermal
collagen growth. It has demonstrated significant effects on photoaging
skin including dyschromias, epidermal growths and fine wrinkle lines.
The Federal Drug Administration has approved topical retinoids for the
treatment of aging and photodamaged skin in the form of tretinoin cream
(Renova 0.05% or 0.02%) and most recently tazarotene cream 0.1% (Avage).
Use of a retinoid with a sunscreen is basic in skin care for photoaging
skin problems. It is also used prior to resurfacing procedures to enhance
the epidermal and dermal regenerative effect after resurfacing injury.7
Hydroxy
acids have become a part of skin care programs for its effect on thinning
the stratum corneum and decreasing epidermal cell cohesion. This has
a regenerative effect on epidermal cell kinetics giving the skin texture
a plumper rejuvenative appearance. There is little definitive evidence
that topical alpha-hydroxy acids have an effect on dermal collagen per
se.8
Topical
antioxidants have shown an effect in retarding the reactive oxygen species
(ROS) created by ultraviolet damage. Vitamin C or ascorbic acid has
been shown to be a potent scavenger of free oxygen radials. Topical
products have shown activity in the experimental mode but clinical efficacy
is as of yet anecdotal. Vitamin E is a lipid soluble antioxidant, which
has become popular in topical form but little true objective data is
present to document its effect on photoaging skin.9
Chemical
Peeling
Chemical peeling remains one of the most popular choices for both patient
and physician. In comparison to some of the newer options available,
chemical peels have a long-standing safety and efficacy record, are
performed with ease, are low in cost, and have a relatively quick recovery
time. Various acidic and basic compounds are used to produce a controlled
skin injury and are classified as superficial, medium-depth, and deep
peeling agents according to their level of penetration, destruction,
and inflammation. (Table 1) In general, superficial peels cause epidermal
injury and occasionally extend into the papillary dermis, medium-depth
peels cause injury through the papillary dermis to the upper reticular
dermis, and deep peels cause injury to the midreticular dermis.10
Prior to
the application of peeling solutions, the surgeon must vigorously cleanse
the skin surface to remove residual oils, debris, and excess stratum
corneum. The face is initially scrubbed with 4” X 4” gauze
pads containing 0.25% Irgasan (Septisol, Vestal Laboratories, St. Louis,
Missouri), then rinsed with water and dried. Because of the defatting
and degreasing properties of acetone, gauze pads moistened in an acetone
preparation are then used to cleanse the skin even further. The importance
of cleansing in the peeling procedure cannot be overemphasized. A thorough
and evenly distributed cleansing and degreasing of the face assures
uniform penetration of the peeling solution and leads to an even result
without skip areas. (Illustration II-A and B) 11
The effect
of a chemical peel is dependent upon the agent used, its concentration,
and the techniques employed before and during its application. Each
wounding agent used in peels has unique chemical properties and causes
a specific pattern of injury to the skin.3 It is important for the physician
using these solutions to be familiar with their cutaneous effects and
proper methods of application to assure correct depth of injury. The
marketplace has been flooded with numerous proprietary formulations
of these peeling agents, with each product claiming unique advantages.
These products are often expensive and have not been unequivocally shown
to be safer or more effective than the conventional solutions. This
article will therefore focus on the specific chemical agents that are
actively responsible for producing the various patterns of injury.
Superficial
Chemical Peeling
Superficial chemical peels are indicated in the management of acne and
its post-inflammatory erythema, mild photoaging (Glogau I & II),
epidermal growths such as lentigines and keratoses, as well as melasma
and other pigmentary dyschromias. Multiple peels on a repeated basis
are usually necessary to obtain optimal results. The frequency of peels
and degree of exposure to the peeling agent may be increased gradually
as necessary. Results are enhanced by medical or cosmoceutical therapy.
All superficial chemical peels share the advantages of only mild stinging
and burning during application as well as minimal time needed for recovery.
They are a part of office-based procedures.13
Superficial
chemical peels are divided into two varieties – very light and
light. (Table 1) With very light peels, the injury is usually limited
to the stratum corneum and only creates exfoliation, but the injury
may extend into the stratum granulosum. The agents used for these peels
include low potency formulations of glycolic acid, 10 - 20% trichloroacetic
acid (TCA), Jessner’s solution (Table 3), tretinoin, and salicylic
acid. Light peels injure the entire epidermis down to the basal layer,
stimulating the regeneration of a fresh new epithelium. Agents used
for light peels include 70% glycolic acid, 25 - 35% TCA, Jessner’s
solution and solid carbon dioxide slush.14 During the application of
superficial peeling agents, there may be mild stinging followed by a
level I frosting, defined as the appearance of erythema and streaky
whitening on the surface. (Fig I-A)
Alpha-hydroxy
acids (AHA) peeling agents have been used widely in skin rejuvenation
programs since the early 1990’s. The depth of injury is determined
by the specific AHA used, its pH, the concentration of free acid, the
volume applied to the skin, and the duration of contact or time the
agent is left on the skin before neutralization.15 In low concentrations,
20-30% - AHA's have been shown to decrease the cohesion of corneocytes
at the junction of the stratum corneum and the stratum granulosum, while
higher concentrations – 70% are associated with complete epidermolysis.
Weekly or biweekly applications of 40 to 70% unbuffered glycolic acid
with cotton swabs, a sable brush, or 2” X 2” gauze pads
have been used most often for acne, mild photoaging, and melasma.15
The time of application is critical for glycolic acid, as it must be
rinsed off with water or neutralized with 5% sodium bicarbonate after
two to four minutes.
Application
of 10 to 20% TCA with either a saturated 2” X 2” gauze pad
or sable brush produces erythema and a very light frost within 15 to
45 seconds. The depth of penetration of the peeling solution is related
to the number of coats applied, this deeper penetration and injury can
occur with over coating. Ideally, a Level I frosting is obtained with
superficial TCA peels. Protein precipitation results and leads to exfoliation
without vesiculation. Concentrations of TCA up to 35% can also be used
alone as a superficial peeling agent but may create an injury that extends
partially into the upper dermis.16
Jessner’s
solution is a combination of keratolytic ingredients that has been used
for over one hundred years in the treatment of inflammatory and comedonal
acne as well as hyperkeratotic skin disorders. (Table 3) Jessner’s
solution has intense keratolytic activity, initially causing loss of
corneocyte cohesion within the stratum corneum and subsequently creating
intercellular and intracellular edema within the upper epidermis if
application is continued.17 The mode of application for the Jessner's
peel is similar to that of the 10 to 20% TCA peel. The clinical endpoint
of treatment is erythema and blotchy frosting. It is a good repetitive
peel for photoaging skin because of its inflammatory effects. The peel
can be repeated every two weeks.
Salicylic
acid, a beta-hydroxy acid that is one of the ingredients in Jessner's
solution, can also be used alone in superficial chemical peeling.18
It is a preferred therapy for comedonal acne as it is lipophilic and
concentrates in the pilosebaceous apparatus. It is quite effective as
an adjunctive therapy for open and closed comedones and resolving post-acne
erythema. (Fig II-A, B, C) It is also a peel of choice for melasma and
pigmentary dyschromia because it has minimal inflammatory action. Used
repeatedly, it has the least risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Superficial peeling for abnormal pigmentation is combined with skin
care and topical retinoids, a bleaching product (hydroquinone, including
4%-8%) and an adequate sunscreen.19
Prior to
the initial treatment with a superficial peel, both patient and physician
must understand the limitations, especially on photoaging, to avoid
future disappointment. The effect of repetitive superficial chemical
peels never approaches the beneficial effect obtained with a single
medium-depth or deep peel, in that the improvements in photo aged skin
following superficial peels are usually subtle because there is little
to no effect on the dermis. Nevertheless, their ease of use and minimal
down-time makes these “lunch time” peels rewarding for patients
with realistic expectations and are a favorite among the busy baby-boomers.
Medium-depth
chemical peeling
Medium-depth chemical
peels consist of controlled damage through the epidermis and papillary
dermis, with variable extension to the upper reticular dermis. During
the next three months postoperatively, there is increased collagen production
with expansion of the papillary dermis and the development of a mid-dermal
band of thick, elastic-staining fibers.20 These changes correlate with
continued clinical improvement during this time.
For many
years, 40 - 50% TCA was the prototypical medium-depth peeling agent
because of its ability to ameliorate fine wrinkles, actinic changes,
and pre-neoplasia. TCA as a single agent for medium-depth peeling has
fallen out of favor because of the high risk of complications, especially
scarring and pigmentary alterations, when used in strengths approaching
50% and higher.21 Today, most medium-depth chemical peels are performed
utilizing 35% TCA in combination with either Jessner’s solution,
70% glycolic acid, or solid carbon dioxide (CO2) as a 'priming' agent.
(Table 4) These combination peels have been found as effective as 50%
TCA alone but with fewer risks. The level of penetration is better controlled
with these combination peels, thereby avoiding scarring seen with higher
concentrations of TCA.
Brody developed
the use of solid CO2 to freeze the skin prior to the application of
35% TCA. This causes complete epidermal necrosis and significant dermal
edema, thereby allowing deeper penetration of the TCA in selected areas.11
Monheit then described a combination medium-depth peel in which Jessner’s
solution is applied, followed by 35% TCA.23 Similarly, Coleman and Futrell
have demonstrated the use of 70% glycolic acid prior to the application
of 35% TCA for medium-depth peeling.24 The Jessner’s solution
and glycolic acid both appear to effectively weaken the epidermal barrier
and allow deeper, more uniform, and more controlled penetration of the
35% TCA.
Current
indications for medium-depth chemical peeling include Glogau group II
or moderate photoaging, epidermal lesions such as actinic keratoses,
pigmentary dyschromias, mild acne scarring, as well as to blend the
effects of deeper resurfacing procedures. The most popular of the medium-depth
peels for facial rejuvenation is the Jessner's - 35% TCA peel, with
other combination peels being utilized less frequently. This peel has
been widely accepted because of its broad range of uses, the large number
of people in whom it is indicated, its ease of modification according
to the situation, and its excellent safety profile. It though is not
a “lunch time” treatment and should be considered a surgical
procedure requiring preoperative consideration and preparation, operative
sedation and aftercare for one week or more.
The Jessner's
- 35% TCA peel is particularly useful for the improvement of mild to
moderate photoaging. (Fig III-A) It freshens sallow, atrophic skin and
softens fine rhytids with minimal risk of textural or pigmentary complications.
(Fig III-B) Collagen remodeling occurs for as long as three to four
months postoperatively, during which there is continued improvement
in texture and rhytides. When used in conjunction with a retinoid, bleaching
agent, and sunscreens, a single Jessner's - 35% TCA peel lessens pigmentary
dyschromias and lentigines more effectively than repetitive superficial
peels. (Fig IV-A, B) Epidermal growths such as actinic keratoses also
respond well to this peel. In fact, the Jessner’s - 35% TCA peel
has been found as effective as topical 5-fluorouracil chemotherapy in
removing both grossly visible and clinically undetectable actinic keratoses
but has the added advantages of lower morbidity and greater improvement
in associated photoaging.25 (Fig V-A, B, C)
This peel
is also useful to blend the effects of other resurfacing procedures
with the surrounding skin. Patients who undergo laser resurfacing, deep
chemical peeling, or dermabrasion to a localized area such as the periorbital
or perioral region often develop a sharp line of demarcation between
the treated and untreated skin. This is because the surrounding photoaging
skin has significant dyschromia and textural aging. The treated skin
may appear hypopigmented (also known as pseudohypopigmentation) in comparison
to the untreated skin. A Jessner’s – 35% TCA peel performed
on the adjacent untreated skin helps to blend the treated area into
its surroundings. For example, a patient with advanced photoaging in
the periorbital region and moderate photoaging on the remaining face
may desire CO2 laser resurfacing only around her eyes. In this patient,
medium-depth chemical peeling of the areas not treated with the laser
would improve the photoaging in these regions and avoid a line of demarcation.26
It is important to note that when used in combination with other resurfacing
procedures such as laser irradiation or dermabrasion, the peel should
be performed first in order to avoid accidental application of the peeling
agent onto previously abraded areas of skin. (Fig VI-A, B, C)
Using either
cotton-tipped applicators or 2” x 2” gauze pads, a single,
even coat of Jessner’s solution is applied first to the forehead,
then the cheeks, nose and chin, and lastly, the eyelids. Proper application
of Jessner’s solution causes minimal discomfort and creates a
faint frost within a background of mild erythema (level I). After waiting
one to two minutes for the Jessner’s solution to completely dry,
35% TCA is then applied evenly with one to four cotton-tipped applicators.
(Fig VII-A, B, C) The effectiveness of this peel is directly dependent
upon the depth of penetration of the peeling solutions, and this depth
is a function of the adequacy of degreasing and the amount of both solutions
applied. The use of cotton swabs, particularly for the application of
TCA, is advantageous because is allows the surgeon to easily vary the
amount of solution applied according to the patient's specific needs.
The amount of TCA delivered to the skin surface is determined by the
number of applicators used, their degree of saturation, the amount of
pressure applied to the skin surface, and the duration of their contact
with the skin. Four moist cotton-tipped applicators are applied in broad
strokes over the forehead and on the medial cheeks. Two mildly soaked
cotton-tipped applicators can be used across the lips and chin, and
one damp cotton-tipped applicator on the eyelids. The depth of penetration
and completion of the peel reaction can be monitored by the level of
frosting. A full combination Jessner’s – 35% TCA peel should
obtain a level II to III frosting. One should never overcoat TCA on
a level III frosting as the injury may be pushed to a level that can
cause complications, i.e. pigmentation or scarring.
Anatomic
areas of the face are peeled with TCA sequentially from the forehead
to temple to cheeks and finally to the lips and eyelids. Careful feathering
of the solution into the hairline and around the rim of the jaw and
brow conceals the demarcation line between peeled and non-peeled skin.
Areas of wrinkled skin are stretched taut with the help of an assistant
to allow even application of the solution into the folds and troughs.
This technique is particularly helpful on the skin of the upper and
lower lips. For perioral rhytids, TCA is applied with the wood portion
of a cotton-tipped applicator and extended onto the vermilion border.
(Fig VII-D)
Eyelid
skin must be treated delicately and carefully to avoid over-application
and to prevent exposure of the eyes to TCA solution.27 The patient should
be positioned with the head elevated at 30 degrees and excess peel solution
on the cotton tip should be squeezed out so that the applicator is semidry.
With the eyes closed, a single applicator is rolled gently from the
periorbital skin onto the upper eyelid skin without going beyond the
moveable lid. Another semidry applicator is then rolled onto the lower
eyelid skin within two to three millimeters of the lid margin while
the patient is looking superiorly. Excess peel solution should never
be left on the lids because it can roll into the eyes and tears should
be immediately dried with a cotton-tipped applicator because they may
pull the solution into the eye by capillary action.
The white
frost from the TCA application appears on the treated area within 30
seconds to two minutes.(Fig III-C) This response is representative of
keratocoagulation and indicates that the TCA's physiologic reaction
is complete. TCA takes longer to frost than phenol preparations, but
a shorter period of time than the superficial peeling agents. The desired
endpoint in medium-depth peeling is level II to level III frosting.
(Table 5) Level II frosting is defined as a white-coated frosting with
a background of erythema. (Fig I-B)
Level III
frosting, which is associated with penetration to the reticular dermis,
is a solid white enamel frosting with no background of erythema. (Fig
I-C) A deeper level III frosting should be restricted only to areas
of thick skin and heavy actinic damage. Most medium-depth chemical peels
achieve a level II frosting and this is especially important over the
eyelids and areas of sensitive skin. Areas with a greater tendency to
form scars, such as the zygomatic arch, the bony prominences of the
jawline, and chin, should receive no greater than level II frosting.
Before
retreating an area with inadequate frosting, the surgeon should wait
at least three to four minutes after the application of TCA to ensure
that frosting has reached its peak. Each cosmetic unit is then assessed,
and areas of incomplete or uneven frosting are carefully retreated with
a thin application of TCA. Additional applications of TCA increase the
depth of penetration as well as the risk of complications, so one should
apply more solution only to the under frosted areas.
Though
there is an immediate burning sensation as the peel solution is applied,
the discomfort begins to subside as frosting occurs and resolves fully
by the time of discharge. This peel can be performed with light sedation
such as:
1) Diazepam 10 mg PO
2) Meperidine 50 mg IM
3) Hydroxyzine 25 mg IM
After cooling the skin with saline, the patient will remain comfortable
throughout the post-operative period. Cool saline compresses offer symptomatic
relief at the conclusion of the peel. Unlike the compresses in glycolic
acid peels, the saline following a TCA peel simply provides relief and
does not "neutralize" the acid.
Deep
chemical peeling
Patients with more extreme photoaging skin may require deep
chemical peeling, motorized dermabrasion, or laser resurfacing to
improve their greater degree of skin damage. As discussed with medium-depth
peels, deep chemical peeling leads to production of new collagen and
ground substance down to a level in proportion with the depth of the
peel. The peeling agent of choice is the Baker-Gordon phenol peel.
The Baker-Gordon peel utilizes phenol in a formulation that permits
deep penetration into the dermis, deeper than full-strength phenol.28
The Baker-Gordon formula consists of Septisol (Vestal Laboratories,
St. Louis, Missouri), croton oil, and tap water added to a solution
of phenol, reducing its concentration to 50 or 55%.(Table 6) The mixture
of ingredients is freshly prepared and must be stirred vigorously prior
to application due to its poor miscibility. The liquid soap, Septisol,
is a surfactant that reduces skin tension, allowing a more even penetration.
Croton oil is a vesicant epidermolytic agent that enhances phenol absorption.
Recent investigations into the effects of this peel using varying concentrations
of both phenol and croton oil have suggested that the procedure's efficacy
is more related to the amount of croton oil than phenol.29,30
There are
two main variations in deep chemical peeling with the Baker-Gordon phenol
formula – occluded and unoccluded. Occlusion of the peeling solution
with tape is thought to increase its penetration and extend the injury
into the mid-reticular dermis. This technique is particularly helpful
for deeply lined, “weather-beaten” faces but should be utilized
only by experienced surgeons because of the higher risk of complications.31
The unoccluded technique as modified by McCollough involves a more vigorous
cleansing of the skin and the application of more peel solution.32 This
may enhance the efficacy of the solution but without penetration as
deeply as in an occluded peel. In the hands of a skilled and knowledgeable
surgeon, both methods are safe and reliable in rejuvenating advanced
to severe photo aged skin. Deep chemical peeling can significantly improve
or even eliminate deep furrows as well as other textural and pigmentary
irregularities associated with severe photoaging. (Fig VIII-A, B) A
remarkable degree of improvement is the expected result of deep chemical
peeling when performed properly on carefully selected patients.
The patient
undergoing deep chemical peeling must understand and be willing to accept
the significant risk of complications and the increased degree of morbidity.
The most notable complications include scarring, textural changes such
as “alabaster skin,” or “plastic skin” and pigmentary
disturbances. It is not uncommon for patients to experience postoperative
erythema that can take many months to resolve and may be followed by
variable hypopigmentation. (Fig IX) Male patients and patients with
darker complexions are less favorable candidates for deep chemical peeling
since the hypopigmentation is less easily camouflaged. Since phenol
is cardiotoxic , preoperative evaluation includes a complete blood count,
liver function tests, serum urea nitrogen and creatinine and electrolyte
determinations, and a baseline electrocardiogram. Any patient who has
a history of cardiac arrhythmias or who is taking a medication known
to precipitate arrhythmias should not undergo a full-face Baker-Gordon
phenol peel. Patients with a history of hepatic or renal disease are
also poor candidates.
Compared
with medium-depth and superficial peeling, the Baker-Gordon phenol peel
is a time-consuming procedure and it must be performed only in a properly
equipped facility. The required waiting period after the treatment of
each cosmetic unit limits the rate of cutaneous absorption, thereby
preventing the serum levels of phenol from reaching a dangerous peak
during the procedure. Intravenous hydration with a liter of lactated
Ringer’s solution before the procedure and another liter during
the peel also promotes phenol excretion and prevents toxicity. Continuous
electrocardiography, pulse oximetry, and blood pressure monitoring are
mandatory during the entire perioperative period. Any abnormalities,
such as a premature ventricular contraction (PVC) or premature atrial
contraction (PAC), necessitate abrupt stoppage of the procedure and
careful evaluation for toxicity.33 Oxygen is supplemented throughout
the procedure as some physicians feel that it has a protective effect
against cardiac arrhythmias.
After thorough
cleansing and degreasing of the skin, the chemical agent is applied
sequentially to six aesthetic units: forehead, perioral region, right
cheek, left cheek, nose, and periorbital region. There is a 15 minute
time interval between the treatment of each cosmetic area, allowing
60 to 90 minutes for the entire procedure. Cotton-tipped applicators
are used with a similar technique as discussed with the medium-depth
Jessner's – 35% TCA peel, though less solution is used because
frosting occurs very rapidly. (Fig X) Occlusion of the peel can be accomplished
with strips of waterproof zinc oxide tape (e.g., one-half inch Curity
tape) to each cosmetic unit just after the phenol is applied. Care is
exercised to extend the peel slightly beyond the mandibular rim to conceal
the demarcation between treated and untreated skin. The last aesthetic
unit, the periorbital skin, is treated cautiously and conservatively
to avoid over penetration which can lead to ectropion or scarring. It
is important to remember that diluting a phenol compound with water
may increase its penetration, so mineral oil rather than water should
be used to flush the eyes if contact occurs.
Application
of the peeling agent creates an immediate burning sensation, which lasts
for 15 to 20 seconds, subsides for 20 minutes, and then returns for
the next six to eight hours. Ice packs may be applied as necessary for
patient comfort. Narcotics are usually prescribed upon discharge for
adequate pain control. Systemic steroids are also administered by some
surgeons to lessen the inflammatory response. For untaped peels, petrolatum
is applied and a biosynthetic dressing can be used for the first 24
hours.
MECHANICAL
RESURFACING PROCEDURES
During the last five decades, dermabrasion utilizing a rotating abrasive
surface attached to a power-driven hand engine has been considered a
premier skin resurfacing procedure for facial scars. It has generally
been regarded as a deep resurfacing modality based on its depth of injury
and its prolonged healing time. The original descriptions of modern
dermabrasion involved the use of a wire brush which remains in use today.34,35
In 1957, the diamond fraise was introduced and became the preferred
instrument for dermabrasion by some surgeons because it is less aggressive
and more forgiving than the wire brush.36 Recently, there has been a
resurgence of interest in manual dermasanding which allows for more
deliberate and controlled skin planning and microdermabrasion.37,38
Microdermabrasion
Microdermabrasion is considered
superficial because it removes the stratum corneum and outer epidermis.
Whether it is classified as very light or light in comparison to the
other superficial resurfacing procedures depends upon the techniques
and aggressiveness of the operator. The microdermabrasion unit's handpiece
is a closed system, which propels aluminum oxide crystals at the skin
at high speeds and simultaneously removes them with suction. These units
were developed commercially in the mid-1990's and are currently in widespread
use in both physicians' offices and non-medical aesthetic spas. Microdermabrasion
may be indicated for acneiform conditions, pigmentary dyschromias, and
as a "lunchtime" procedure for facial rejuvenation in all
skin types.39,40 Both the patient and physician must understand that
the degree of objective improvement with microdermabrasion may be limited.
This is a repetitive procedure performed every 2 weeks along with appropriate
cosmoceutical agents. Ideal candidates for microdermabrasion typically
are young patients that desire limited facial rejuvenation without "downtime"
and thus must have realistic expectations of the limited anticipated
results. Patients often report that their skin has a smoother texture
and that cosmetics are easier to apply and blend in with their skin
more easily. (Fig XI) Although the role of microdermabrasion in facial
rejuvenation has grown dramatically since these units were developed,
the scientific data to justify their use has been lacking.
Manual Dermasanding
Manual dermasanding involves abrading the skin by hand using silicon
carbide sandpaper or wallscreen commercially available at any hardware
store. Its classification as a wounding agent is entirely dependent
upon the type of paper used, the force applied by the surgeon, and the
duration of contact with the skin. Although it can be used to produce
a wound as deep as with wire brush dermabrasion or several passes with
a pulsed CO2 laser, manual dermasanding is probably most commonly used
as a medium-depth or "minimally deep" resurfacing modality.
(Table 7)
Manual
dermasanding is most often utilized for resurfacing localized regions
to minimize the appearance of a scar or to blend or enhance the effects
of a medium-depth chemical peel or a combination procedure.41 It can
be used following CO2 laser resurfacing to feather the transition into
hair-bearing areas that are inaccessible to the laser. Manual dermasanding
of the eyebrows and hairline and gently abrading the upper neck at the
inferior aspect of the laser-irradiated zone are all effective at minimizing
lines of demarcation between treated and untreated skin. (Fig XII) It
can also be useful immediately after laser resurfacing for stubborn
rhytids, particularly in the perioral region. Manual dermasanding can
improve the outcome by producing a slightly greater depth of injury
in a controlled fashion where further thermal injury would be risky.
It will also remove adherent necrotic debris and thermal damage, thus
speeding up the healing process. Similarly, a medium-depth chemical
peel can be immediately followed by manual dermasanding on the more
troublesome areas to enhance the results and also along the borders
of the peeled skin to blend the effects. Our clinical experience suggests
that dermasanding after a Jessner's - 35% TCA peel may yield impressive
postoperative results that approach those seen with either motorized
dermabrasion or CO2 laser resurfacing in patients with photoaging skin.
(Fig XIII-A, B, C, D) This combination is particularly helpful in patients
who may not tolerate the greater degree of sedation often necessary
with CO2 laser resurfacing.
The necessary
materials for manual dermasanding include silicon carbide sandpaper
or wallscreen. Both may be purchased in a variety of grades: fine grade
(#400), medium grade (#220-320), and coarse grade (#180). The sandpaper
is easy to use because of its flexibility and is easily cut into smaller
pieces, which can be steam autoclaved. A 1 1/2" X 3" piece
of sterilized sandpaper is wrapped around either the barrel of a 3 cc
syringe or a rolled up 2" X 2" gauze pad and moistened with
saline or a soap-free cleanser (e.g., Cetaphil, Galderma Laboratories,
Inc., Fort Worth, TX) for lubrication. A 1% solution of lidocaine with
epinephrine may be used instead if additional anesthesia is necessary.
Both back-and-forth and circular motions are used to gradually abrade
the skin layer by layer until the hills and valleys are softened or
adjacent areas are blended to the desired degree. Coarse grades may
be used initially for "debulking" followed by finer grades
later in the procedure. The fine grade is used to blend delicate areas
of skin such as around the eyelids. At the completion of the procedure,
the dark-colored silicon carbide particles remaining on the skin surface
should be rinsed off because there is a theoretical risk of their becoming
implanted.
Motorized
Dermabrasion
Some of the units most commonly used today are the Bell hand engine
(Bell International, Burlingame, CA), the AEV-12 hand engine (Ellis
International, Madison, NJ), and the Osada surgical handpiece (Osada,
Inc., Los Angeles, CA). A topical refrigerant spray (Frigiderm, Frigiderm
Corp., Costa Mesa, CA) is used to produce anesthesia and to harden the
skin as it is abraded. The spray immobilizes the topographic features
so that there is no distortion by the pressure of the abrasive instrument.
The two abrasive instruments most often employed with these units are
the wire brush and the diamond fraise. The wire brush has numerous,
small-caliber stainless steel wires that project circumferentially from
the curved side of a cylindrical hub. A diamond fraise consists of a
stainless steel cylinder to which industrial-grade diamonds are bonded
to create the abrasive surface. As compared with wire brush instruments,
diamond fraises are manufactured with a greater variety in shape, width
of abrasive surface, wheel diameter, and coarseness of grit. The wire
brush is more aggressive and cuts more quickly and more deeply into
the skin with each stroke, thereby posing a greater risk for injury
and requiring more skill to operate. Though the diamond fraise is generally
safer and more forgiving, it may not yield the degree of improvement
possible with the wire brush, especially for more stubborn conditions
such as deep acne scarring. (Fig XIV)
Because
dermabrasion with either instrument is highly technique-dependent and
its learning curve is steep, there may be considerable variability in
the clinical results obtained by different operators. It is very important
for beginning dermabraders to attain thorough hands-on instruction from
an experienced operator in order to be adequately trained. The proper
techniques for motorized dermabrasion have also been the subject of
comprehensive reviews in the literature.42,43,44 Careful evaluation
of the depth of injury throughout the procedure is critical to assure
sufficient depth for optimal results without penetrating beyond the
desired level and risk scarring. Because of the potential for aerosolization
of infectious particles during dermabrasion, appropriate precautions
are mandatory to protect the operating room staff. (Table 8)
Moderate
to severe acne scarring is the most notable indication for dermabrasion
as laser resurfacing has yielded variable results and chemical peeling
is generally disappointing. Dermabrasion selectively planes off the
"hilltops" that surround the atrophic "valleys"
whereas chemical peeling and lasers produce an injury of equivalent
depth in both areas. (Fig XV-A, B, C)
The use
of CO2 lasers has revolutionized resurfacing
techniques for photoaging skin. Because of the varying properties of
lasers, the physician must be thoroughly familiar with the physics,
the technology and operating geometry of the laser. Whether the laser
is pulsed, continuous or computer scanned impacts the physiologic response.
The level depth of destruction is different for each laser, thus the
physician should be familiar with the laser of choice. For reliable
vaporization of skin layers, a pulsed laser with a CPG (computer generated
scanner) makes the procedure safer. Each pass destroys 75-100 microns
of tissue with a zone of thermal damage below. Thus, two to three passes
with an ultrapulse CO2 laser is maximal for rejuvenation of photo damaged
skin; a deep resurfacing technique. The zone of thermal damage causes
collagen shrinkage or contraction, which is a unique characteristic
for CO2 laser resurfacing. This gives an added benefit to wrinkle treatment
not found with either dermabrasion or chemical peeling. This is especially
true with perioral and periorbital wrinkled skin.
Carbon
dioxide laser resurfacing requires anesthesia; either general operative
anesthesia or tumescent local anesthesia for the entire face. Laser
safety precautions are needed to prevent laser fire or laser injury
to the employees, the unprotected skin, the teeth or even the endotracheal
tube for general anesthesia. These must be protected with appropriate
laser resistant materials; eye shields, teeth guards and appropriate
laser resistant endotracheal tube wrapping. Using the CPG, the operator
must remember that the pulse overlap for a chosen pattern size and shape
is set so that each pattern is made to touch yet not overlap. The density
is an important parameter in determining laser beam intensity. One should
not go above a density of 6 with facial resurfacing. Each pass should
cover the face fully, vaporizing the tissue to ash and debris, which
is wiped off between each pass. The visual endpoint is a mauve or slightly
yellow discoloration indicating denaturization of dermal collagen. Further
passes cause deeper dermal scarring. Special care must be taken over
scar prone areas such as the bony prominences of the chin, jawline,
malar ridge and forehead. The eyelid is treated more conservatively
as collagen can precipitate an ectropion, with or without scar. The
lips are treated with two to three passes but not over the vermilion
line as this can flatten the lip in an unaesthetic manner. Bordered
facial creases such as the jawline and neck should be blended with light
chemical peeling and minimal dermasanding to soften the demarcations
of treated and untreated photoaging neck skin.
As important
as the operative technique is proper postoperative wound care. Partial
thickness skin wounds heal fastest when kept at or near 100% humidity
or occlusive or semi occlusive dressings. Non-stick pads and hydrogels
such as Flexzan or Vigilon are changed daily to remove coagulation debris
and necrotic tissue. This is important to prevent secondary wound infection
with resultant scarring. My usual postoperative program is four to five
days of biologic hydration changed daily followed by five days of ¼%
acetic acid soaks (1 tsp. White vinegar in 1 pint warm water) four times
a day followed by occlusive ointments such as petrolatum ointment or
Eucerin cream. After ten days, the patient is usually ready for light
cleansers and creams and a mild topical steroid cream for erythematous
areas (Table 9).
Full makeup
can be used with sunscreen after two weeks. Sunscreen with strong sun
avoidance should be adhered to for two to three months to prevent post-laser
hyperpigmentation.
Herpes
simplex infection can occur during the healing period following medium
depth or deep ablative injury. Antiviral prophylaxis should begin during
the operative session and continue beyond reepithelialization, 10-14
days. If infection occurs, punctate vesicles occur with pain and full
treatment therapy should begin to prevent scarring.
Delayed
wound healing may be a sign of bacterial infection or resurfacing too
deep to heal normally. It should be treated with biologic dressings,
appropriate antibiotics and cortisones as indicated. The diligent physician
must watch his patients carefully during the post-operative course to
catch these complications early and prescribe appropriate treatment.
This will prevent the permanent complications of pigmentation changes
and scarring.
CONCLUSIONS
The general public has a renewed interest in skin rejuvenation. Although
there are many techniques presently available, it is up to the cosmetic
physician to match the appropriate tool with the patient’s needs
to give proper benefit with the least risk. These tools need special
training and experience and as one gains further knowledge and skill,
these procedures generally occupy a rewarding part of ones practice.